Explore the My Son Sanctuary in Hoi An | My Complete Guide

Located 40 km from Hoi An, the My Son Sanctuary is an exceptional site in Vietnam. Nestled in a lush green valley, this remnant of the Champa Kingdom, whose construction dates back to the 4th century, has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999. Today, it is a must-visit excursion from Hoi An for history enthusiasts and lovers of picturesque landscapes.

In this article, I offer you a complete guide to the My Son Sanctuary. If you have any questions, feel free to leave them in the comments!

History of the Temples at My Son

The My Son Sanctuary, composed of temple towers, is one of the most precious remnants of Cham culture, which flourished along Vietnam’s central coast between the 4th and 13th centuries. These temples, influenced by Indian Hinduism, were dedicated to deities such as Krishna, Vishnu, and especially Shiva, who is prominently depicted in many reliefs.

Built using a sophisticated technique of refractory bricks without mortar, these structures served as both places of worship and burial sites for kings and religious leaders. The site remained active until the early 19th century before being overtaken by the jungle.

// The Rediscovery of the My Son Sanctuary in 1885 by the French

In 1885, the My Son Sanctuary was rediscovered by the French. Henri Parmentier and his team conducted extensive excavations and meticulous documentation between 1903 and 1904, identifying 72 monuments divided into 13 groups based on their period of construction and unique characteristics.

Unfortunately, during the Vietnam War, the ruins were used as a base by the Viet Cong and were heavily bombed by the Americans, reducing the number of monuments to just 17 structures grouped into 8 clusters.

Despite these losses, the My Son Sanctuary is regarded as one of the greatest achievements of the Champa civilization. It is an exceptional illustration of cultural exchanges between an indigenous society and Hindu influences from India. This unique heritage led to its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999.

Distance Between Hoi An and My Son

The My Son Sanctuary is located about 40 kilometers west of Hoi An, making it an ideal half-day or full-day excursion. The journey by car or scooter typically takes between 45 minutes and 1 hour, depending on traffic and your mode of transportation.

If you’re departing from Da Nang, it’s also 40 km (about 1 hour of travel).

Best Times to Visit the My Son Sanctuary

Based on my experience, the best times to visit the My Son Sanctuary are during off-peak hours, such as 6:00 AM or 3:00 PM. At these times, you can avoid the majority of tourists and enjoy a more peaceful atmosphere for exploring the temples. On the other hand, visiting during peak hours may expose you to large crowds, making the visit less enjoyable.

Tip: Arriving early also allows you to take advantage of the soft morning light for stunning photos!

Visit to My Son Sanctuary

The My Son Sanctuary is located on a 142-hectare property with the Cat Tooth Mountain in the background. Upon your arrival at My Son, a well-marked path takes you around the area and to the different groups.

The remaining temples today are categorized and labeled from A to H. The BCD group constitutes the largest group and features the best-preserved buildings. However, the details and decorations of the other groups are much smaller in comparison and fade due to age.

In recent years, there have been restorations of the temples.

The Museum of the My Son Sanctuary

Before heading to the temples, I recommend visiting the My Son Museum. It is located 100 meters behind the ticket office on the right side of the road. With a permanent and thematic exhibition, it provides historical, archaeological, and religious insights into My Son and the Cham civilization. Admission is free, so why not take the time to visit?

Opposite the museum is the bridge and road leading to the temple complex. While it’s perfectly possible to walk to the site, I suggest taking one of the free electric cars that depart frequently. This way, you can save your energy for exploring My Son and enjoying the temples.

The bus drop-off point is also the start of the marked path that leads you through the site. There are also a few restaurants offering refreshments and an office where you can hire a private guide to accompany you.

Best Temples at My Son

It is important to stay on the marked paths, as demining is still ongoing (yes, even in 2024), and the surrounding areas have not been completely cleared of unexploded ordnance from the Indochina War.

At the center of the sanctuary, you’ll find the Stone Temple (C1), likely the oldest structure in all of My Son, dating back to the 4th century. What makes it unique is that it’s the only temple built from stone in the entire history of the Cham civilization. Dedicated to the god Shiva, it features tall columns with a style curiously similar to that of Greek temples, an enigma that continues to intrigue historians. At the entrance, a finely carved sandstone stele tells fragments of a bygone era.

Nearby, you’ll discover an ancient stone basin that was once used for ceremonies. Fed by a stream symbolizing the Ganges, this basin adds a sacred touch to an area already steeped in spirituality.

Group A

Cross the stream and turn right to reach Group A, often referred to as “the Pagoda Group.” This area once housed the largest tower in the entire sanctuary (A1), standing at an impressive height of 24 meters. Today, only ruins remain, a result of American bombings in 1972. However, reconstruction efforts are underway, with the help of Indian artisans working to restore this majestic complex to its former glory.

Group D

Group D is particularly fascinating for understanding the spiritual dimension of My Son. Two long houses, known as Mandapa, served as meditation spaces for pilgrims and monks before they entered the main temple. Restored by Polish archaeologists in the 1980s, these structures now host small exhibitions that immerse visitors in the Cham universe.

Group G

Perched atop a hill, Group G requires a short climb, but the reward is well worth it. Built in the 12th century, its architecture slightly deviates from traditional Cham style, featuring three entrances instead of one. Restored between 2003 and 2013 with the help of Italy, it symbolizes international efforts to preserve this unique site. From the summit, the view of the surrounding valley is breathtaking.

The Mystery of Groups E and F

Groups E and F deserve special attention. The beautifully reconstructed E7 Temple remains shrouded in mystery regarding its original purpose. This temple is a perfect example of modern preservation techniques applied to the sanctuary.

Group F, on the other hand, bears the marks of abandonment and bombings. Some structures are at risk of collapse, but archaeologists are working to preserve them. Among the notable discoveries here is a 7th-century Mukhalinga, a sandstone lingam featuring a carved king’s head, now preserved in the My Son Museum.

Group K

While exploring the area, don’t miss Group K. This recently restored group has unveiled remnants of an ancient “royal road,” likely used by the emperor and his court during festivities. This discovery adds a new layer of historical and cultural significance to the site, offering a glimpse into the grandeur of Cham ceremonial traditions.

Cham Dance Shows at My Son

If you visit the My Son Sanctuary, don’t miss the traditional Cham art performance. It’s a unique experience that brings the history and culture of this ancient civilization to life. The shows, held daily at 9:15 AM, 10:45 AM, 2:00 PM, and 3:30 PM, feature graceful dances, musical performances, and traditional instruments like the long lute.

Practical Tip:

Arrive at the public stage 10 minutes before the show to secure a good seat and fully enjoy the performance. If you plan to attend the show immediately upon arrival, make sure to organize your transport accordingly.

Private Tour vs Public Tour

1. Public Tour

There are many tour operators in Hoi An offering public tours to My Son, and they all provide relatively similar packages. Some tours can be booked online.

Public tours offer two departure times from your hotel, typically around 7:30 AM or 1:30 PM. The tour lasts about four hours in total.

To book a public tour, simply ask your hotel, and they will arrange it for you directly.

// Review of Public Tours to My Son

Public tours to My Son are a budget-friendly option, but they come with some drawbacks. With large groups, sometimes very crowded, the experience can feel less personal. Fixed schedules leave no room for flexibility, and arriving simultaneously with other groups often leads to large crowds, making the visit less immersive.

Ideal for those on a tight budget, this type of tour is less suitable for those seeking peace and personalization. For a more serene experience, a private tour remains the best option.

2. Private Tour

Personally, this is the best choice. Avoiding tourist groups is priceless. I can’t stand being stuck on a bus with 30 tourists.

Want to arrive at the opening? No problem—leave Hoi An at 5:00 AM, and you’ll be there by 6:00 AM, just in time.

Your driver will wait in the parking lot while you take your time exploring the ruins of My Son. Honestly, if you’re willing to spend the extra money, it’s worth it.

It allows for greater freedom to arrive earlier, and you’re not stuck with a group of 30 tourists.

// Review of Private Tours to My Son

Private tours to My Son are perfect for those looking for a tailored experience. Yes, they are more expensive than public tours, but they offer total flexibility in terms of schedule, allowing you to visit the site at your own pace. You’ll also avoid the crowds, making your exploration more peaceful and immersive.

For a unique discovery of this historical site, a private tour is an investment well worth the cost.

3. My Son Sunrise Tour

Choosing a sunrise tour of the My Son Sanctuary allows you to enjoy the ruins in soft, dreamy light compared to the harsh rays of the day. Additionally, the temperature will be much more bearable.

For these reasons, sunrise tours have grown in popularity among visitors. However, this has also led to an increase in the number of tourists visiting the temples early in the morning.

If you opt for a private car or taxi to get to My Son for sunrise, be sure to clearly communicate your desired arrival time to your driver. In some unfortunate cases due to misunderstandings, the sun has already risen upon arrival.

Getting from Hoi An to My Son

Hoi An to My Son by Scooter

Renting a scooter in Hoi An and riding to My Son is one of the best ways to reach the ruins. Scooters or motorbikes are relatively cheap to rent for a day, with prices varying depending on where you rent them. Prices range from 100,000 VND to 150,000 VND per day (approximately €4 – €6) for a basic scooter.

Google Maps will show you two routes to reach My Son. I suggest following the route that takes you through a more local setting.

This alternative route only adds about five minutes to the travel time compared to the primary route suggested by Google. At My Son, there is a dedicated parking area for two-wheelers on the opposite side of the car parking lot. The area is shaded and has a permanent attendant. Parking for a motorbike costs 5,000 VND.

Hoi An to My Son by Car

If you’re looking for a simple and comfortable way to reach the My Son Sanctuary, I highly recommend a private car with a driver. Having tested this option myself, it’s perfect if you’re traveling with family or friends. It’s often cheaper than an organized tour while giving you more freedom to manage your schedule.

Tip: Book in advance, especially during the high season, as good cars get reserved quickly! In terms of cost, a round trip is 800,000 VND for a 4-seater car and 900,000 VND for a 7-seater car.

Visiting the My Son Sanctuary with an English-Speaking Guide

To fully appreciate My Son, I strongly recommend hiring an English-speaking guide to avoid missing out on the rich history and significance of the temple complex.

I’ve tried both options, and having an English-speaking guide is truly a game changer. Walking past a temple without understanding its importance is pointless. And let’s not even talk about tourists who bury their noses in guidebooks like Le Routard or Lonely Planet, missing out on so much valuable insight.

English Audio Guide

Since July 2023, English audio guides have been available on-site at My Son.

You’ll need to purchase a ticket for 50,000 VND (€2) at the ticket counter and add it to the “My Son Monument” app, available on the App Store or Google Play (the app cannot be used outside the My Son Sanctuary).

Through this app, you can listen to 40 stories corresponding to the 40 main attractions of the My Son Sanctuary directly on your phone. To access each story, simply scan the QR code in front of each monument.

The tickets are valid for 8 hours.

While it doesn’t replace an English-speaking guide, it allows you to learn about the site’s history without breaking the bank.

Dress Code

Official regulations promote “civilized tourism” and remind visitors that this is a religious site. I recommend saving swimsuits, bikinis, and similar attire for the beach.

Unlike other places such as pagodas, there is no strict dress code at My Son.

Note that covering your knees and shoulders is not strictly enforced. However, staying cool and protecting yourself from the sun is probably more important, as the My Son valley retains the day’s heat.

My Opinion

Despite its smaller size compared to Angkor Wat, the My Son Sanctuary remains one of the must-visit sites in Hoi An and should definitely be on your travel list when visiting the area.

As a history enthusiast, I always enjoy visiting. Plus, with the recent renovations, I rediscover the My Son Sanctuary every time I go.

For additional context, you can also visit the Cham Museum in Da Nang to further explore Cham history and culture.